
Leaks Under the Sink
A sudden pipe burst is usually covered. Damage from a slow leak you ignored usually isn't.
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How Long It Ran
A pipe that bursts and floods the cabinet overnight is sudden and accidental, which is what your policy pays for. A slow drip under the sink for months is wear and tear, and insurers treat that as a maintenance problem you were expected to catch.
What the Water Touched
The water damage itself may be covered, but fixing the pipe, water heater or appliance that caused it usually isn't. Your policy pays to repair the cabinet, floor and walls, not to replace the fixture that failed, unless something else caused it to break.
Sewer and Drain Backup
A backed-up drain or sewer line pushing water back into the house is excluded on a standard policy. It's added back only if you bought sewer backup coverage separately. Check your declarations page for a line item naming it before assuming it's included.
Mold From the Leak
Mold that grows because of sudden water damage is often covered, usually up to a set dollar limit named in your policy. Mold from a leak that sat for weeks before anyone noticed is harder to get covered, since insurers tie it back to neglect.

Two homes with the same soaked cabinet can get different answers depending on how the leak started and how fast it was caught. One policy pays for the floor, the walls and a mold cleanup up to its limit. Another, without sewer backup coverage or with a leak left too long, pays for none of it. Comparing policies now shows which gaps apply to this house.
What to Do in the First 24 Hours
Shut off the water first, at the fixture or at the main if you can't find a shutoff under the sink. Every hour the leak keeps running adds to the damage, and it also adds to the argument that this was a maintenance issue rather than a sudden failure. Stopping it fast matters for the house and for the claim.
Take photos and video before anything gets cleaned up or torn out. Get the cabinet, the standing water, the source of the leak if you can see it, and anything the water reached, flooring, baseboards, items stored nearby. An adjuster who shows up days later is working from what you documented, not from what they can still see.
Call your insurer or start the claim soon after the water stops. Most policies set a window for reporting damage, and waiting a week to see if it dries out on its own can be read as the kind of delay that turns a covered sudden leak into a disputed one. Mention when you found it and when the water was shut off, since insurers ask about timing specifically to sort sudden damage from a slow one.
Dry the area out and prevent mold from spreading, but hold off on permanent repairs until the adjuster has looked at it or told you to proceed. A fan running on wet subfloor is reasonable mitigation. Replacing the cabinet before anyone from the insurer sees the damage can leave you arguing about something that no longer exists. If a contractor or plumber needs to replace the failed pipe or fixture right away to stop further damage, keep the receipt and the old part if possible, since that's evidence of what broke and when.

What the Claim Process Looks Like
Once the claim is filed, an adjuster is assigned to look at the damage, either in person or through photos if the loss is small and straightforward. They are trying to sort out one thing. Did this happen suddenly, or did it build up over time. The cabinet and flooring get inspected, and often the pipe or fixture itself, even though its replacement likely isn't covered. Where the water traveled matters as much as where it started.
If sewer backup coverage is in play, expect more scrutiny. Insurers sometimes bring in a plumber to find out whether tree roots, a collapsed line or a municipal problem caused the backup, since that can affect who pays. This adds time to the claim. A straightforward burst pipe with clear documentation moves faster than a backup with an unclear cause.
Payment usually comes in stages rather than all at once. There's often an initial amount to cover emergency mitigation, the drying equipment, the plumber who stopped the leak, and a separate amount for rebuilding once the scope of repairs is set. Large claims may involve a second adjuster or an estimator who writes up the repair costs in detail. Ask directly how the payment is structured, since policies differ on whether money arrives upfront or after work is completed and invoiced.
Keep records through all of it. Every call, every estimate, every date someone from the insurer visited the house. If the claim is denied or paid at less than expected, that record is what makes an appeal possible. Most states give homeowners a path to dispute a denial, and the denial letter itself should explain the reason and the deadline for responding.

Before You Close This Tab
Find your declarations page and check whether sewer backup coverage is listed. If it isn't, that's a gap worth asking about before a drain backs up and you find out the hard way.


